A Requiem for a Dosa
Hey there, welcome to this corner of my website where I pretend to be a pretentious food blogger and review things with the kitschy demeanour of an imitation Anton Ego, the critic from the 2007 Pixar film Ratatouille. Unlike Ego, whose words actually carry some weight and tangibly affect a restaurant's reputation in the Ratatouille cinematic universe, my ramblings here have no such implications; however, very much like Ego, my opinions stem from a deep-seated respect and appreciation for food, or rather in this case, a single kind of food.
For the unaware, the humble dosa — in my totally unbiased opinion — is perhaps humanity's greatest gastronomical invention. Its unassuming simplicity shrouds the richest and most complex flavours; its versatility surpasses that of the naan, and its beauty rivals that of a perfect chocolate chip cookie. [Sigh] Sure, Ameya, but you haven't told us what it is. Right, so a dosa is a thin pancake, like a crêpe, made from a fermented batter of rice and black lentils. Dosas are served hot, with two popular accompaniments: a coconut chutney, and sambar, which is a (sweetened) lentil stew with a tamarind-based broth. Yes I said sweet, and no I'm not ashamed of myself. The dosa is believed to have originated in Karnataka, a state in Southern India, around the 9th century CE. Alternate evidence points to an earlier Tamil origin, but I choose to believe the former because the modern-day dosa was certainly perfected in Karnataka, where it is called dōse [ದೋಸೆ, /d̪o:se/].
Dear reader, at this point you might be wondering why I choose to extol the virtues of this food like it is an anointed sacrament. The dosa forms an integral part of Bangalore's breakfast traditions. If you were to walk on the streets of Bangalore on a Sunday morning, you'd be enveloped by the thick aroma of fresh dosas roasting in ghee, accented by the smell of filter coffee cutting through all that richness. Dosas are intricably tied to the culture of the city, and any discussion of the food here would be remiss without mentioning our signature pancake. For as long as I remember, my Sundays began with a trip to the local darshini (a nonchalant homely outlet that serves vegetarian South Indian fare) for a masala dosa and filter coffee. Hence, the dosa occupies a very special place in my heart — it's a static, unchanging monolith; a symbol of constancy among the flurry of change in life. To me, it brings delicious simplicity to the plate, filling me up with satisfaction, going beyond mere gastronomical delights. This photoblog, if you can call it that, is a reflection of my love for Bangalore and all its offerings.
Throughout this series, I'll rate masala dosas — a variation of the dosa lined with a spicy garlic paste and served with a potato curry — at places across India (and maybe the world) from a scale of 1-5 over four different metrics: visual appeal, batter (the overall quality, taste, and texture), the masala within, and finally the accompaniments.
So won't you come a-Waltzing Matilda with me? (This phrase doesn't have anything to do with the theme of this blog, I just really really like the song.)
Saravanaa Bhavan
Edison, NJ [30.07.2024]- Visual Appeal:
- Batter:
- Masala:
- Accompaniments:
Comments: Growing up, I was taught that if I do not have anything positive to say, I must not say anything at all. However, certain situations arise where one is compelled to critique a grave travesty. This is one such instance. Whatever I was served, was a dosa in name only. It bore no redeeming characteristics, nor did it try to live up to its name. Much like how a skinwalker disguises themselves as an animal, but never quite manages to get it right, so did this "dosa" try to pass itself off as one. There it was, a gastronomic skinwalker walking amidst the masses in the very bastion of South Asian culture in the U.S. There was no crunch, no masala, no texture, no happiness, no respect. Only despair, on which it delivered its very best. The landscape of dosas in this country appears very bleak, and I am losing hope with every passing day.
Rajni Indian Cuisine
Madison, WI [28.01.2024]- Visual Appeal:
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Comments: Perhaps I should not judge dosas outside Bangalore too harshly, especially those in a completely different country, but the life of a critic is marred by uncomfortable decisions. Where do I even begin? A simple visual inspection reveals the callous disdain with which this dosa was made — almost heretic, some would argue. Poor char, almost to the point of undercooked-ness; and why was there no masala? It's in the name, so don't fault me for expecting my masala dosa to come with masala in it. To make matters even worse, the potato filling was mediocre at best. There were four different accompaniments (in this economy?), perhaps overcompensating for the faults in the dosa; each worse than the last. Lukewarm, bland sambar; a funky tomato chutney; a weird peanut chutney and finally, an insipid coconut chutney with no sign of chillies or cilantro. Perhaps the only redeeming quality was the batter itself, which was not too bad. With this being my first dosa in the U.S., I am scared for what awaits me in the future.
Mavalli Tiffin Rooms (MTR)
Bangalore, India [28.06.2023]- Visual Appeal:
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- Masala:
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Comments: I must tread carefully as I dare to critique an iconic Bangalore landmark. MTR is an unoffical custodian of the Kannada breakfast tradition, and perhaps rightly so (cf. its history). At the risk of offending a few orthodox Bangaloreans who swear by MTR's gastronomical genius, I must confess that I was underwhelmed by their masala dosa. Don't get me wrong, it still ranks highly among those that I've eaten so far, but there is definitely some space for improvement. For one, the dosa could have done with a little less char, and a little more potato filling. While ghee is certainly a flavour enhancer, soaking your dosa in it masks the flavour of the batter. The batter itself gets full points from me, it manages to be both crisp and fluffy at the right places, while also uncompromising on taste. MTR also uses a green masala inside their dosas (is it the chutney itself? We shall never know) rather than the traditionally red garlic-based one, but it works well in this case. Perhaps my biggest complaint is with the sambar, for which I've had to dock a point. It lacked a finish that you'd expect, like it almost fell flat. The coconut chutney did make up for it though, and I can't praise it enough. All in all, a very good dosa, 10/10 would visit again.
Atithi Satkar
Bangalore, India [18.05.2023]- Visual Appeal:
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Comments: Exceptional. Mindblowing. The epitome of perfection. This dosa was made in God's image. A perfect even sear throughout the surface with the delicious red garlic masala peeking through. The batter was fermented just right to allow complex umami flavours to develop but not to the point of sourness. The interior was made of concentric bands of cripiness and pillowy fluffiness — the hallmark of a good dosa. The potato filling was cooked evenly, and had the perfect amount of kick to it. The coconut chutney with its subtle cilantro flavour put this dosa right over the top. Not to mention the classic sambar, a tangy-sweet concoction of deliciousness. All in all, this dosa reminds us of everything that makes life worth living.
Udupi Garden
Bangalore, India [30.04.2023]- Visual Appeal:
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Comments: My disappointment is immeasurable and my day is ruined . I did not think one-star rated dosas even existed in Bangalore, but I have suffered a rude disillusionment. The batter seemed to be made with careless disdain; somehow the dosa was raw and overcooked at the same time. Masala dosas are called so because they have a masala within, but it appears that fact might not have been obvious to the maker of this dosa. Not to mention the sheer paucity of potato filling. The sambar was good, but with the dumpster fire on my plate, how am I supposed to even begin to consider the bright sides?
IDC Kitchen
Bangalore, India [26.04.2023]- Visual Appeal:
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Comments: Don't let the picture fool you, the dosa looked mediocre; erring on the side of not great. Good char, I guess? Okayish taste, but what caught me off guard was that IDC chooses to use a podi (a lentil-based spice rub typically eaten with idlis) as their masala. Creates an interesting texture but it doesn't work for me, plus the potato filling was very mushy :( Moreover, the ghee pooled up in inside the dosa, creating grease city. The chutney and sambar were good, but hardly reedeming. Do better, IDC.
Brahmin's Thindis
Bangalore, India [10.04.2023]- Visual Appeal:
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Comments: Visually, this was a standard-issue dosa; an even sear throughout and extra points for the reddish hue of the masala peeking through the surface. A nice mixture of crisp and constrasting soft, thicker bits, but the batter seemed to lack something; its taste felt unfinished, unrounded. An unfussy onion-and-potato filling was suprisingly paired with an onion chutney (???) on the interior, but it somehow worked. Loved the green coconut chutney, but the sambar was incredibly disappointing. Cold and mildly spicy. All in all, an average dosa from an average darshini.